With all your boards and the ability to choose any wave, would you ever return to competitions, or do you feel that progressing as a free surfer is more your style still?
I enjoy myself every day man, and I don’t have to go where I don’t want to go. What the ASP (The Association of Surfing Professionals) is doing currently is really good for surfing but you know what, it’s not for everyone and to each there own, and I just choose to free surf and go with my own path.
Yea you kind of own that lifestyle and you are sponsored by these great companies who allow you to create your own TV show and surf where you want.
Yea it’s a blessing in the skies man, My dad raised me right here in Oahu (Home of Pipeline) and he taught me everything I know, whether its being a good person on land or whether its learning how to surf, he set me up in the right place. It all worked out.
You said that it was a blessing that your dad raised you out there, was he also born in Hawaii?
So my dad was born in America, but grew up in Australia and met my mom, and she was from Australia. And because of my family and Grandparents, we ended up here in Hawaii.
Do you have duel citizenship?
Yea I am dual, and a real fun thing to do in Australia is I go to the bar and talk to someone and I’m like “Yeh, I’m Australian mate” (Australian accent). They bet me next couple rounds of drinks that I’m not, and I win every time. Pull out my passport and boom.
Hahaha, that’s amazing.
Ah yea I love Australia man. The people, the surf, it’s a great place.
Nice, so would you ever live there or anywhere besides Hawaii?
Ah nah man, I love Hawaii.
That’s awesome. Well we have to say, we have been watching your Red Bull TV show, Who is J.O.B, since the beginning. Absolutely stellar stuff. What prompted you to start this project? Just that you lived this life and wanted to record everything?
You know, I was always into filming and have always enjoyed filming. It was like a year of me surfing and not really doing anything and the next thing you know, Red Bull has an idea and asked if I was into it. I took my own initiative and time and really made sure it was a good show and quality content. And each year I get more excited and think about it more and figure out what worked and what didn’t work and better what we do every year. And I think that can really make it a success.
Which is so commendable because not only are you bettering the show, but you guys are pushing the limits of surfing, like setting yourself on fire and surfing Teahupoo and surfing places most people wouldn’t go near.
You know I just think, everyone just does the same shit and we are just having fun. People say we are like Jackass but it’s like saying every surfer is Kelly Slater. What, just because we like to have fun? We have the talent behind us both on and off screen and we have real passion about what we do. Shit, we just have fun and that’s amazing to run your life and show that way.
You guys really do have such an awesome group. Speaking of your group, we gotta know, how did you meet Poopies (Sean McInerny @Poopiesgram)?
Ha you know, I met him because there was this guy renting a room from me and the next thing I know, he has like 8 guys in the room, so I came over to the house to figure out what was going on. Sure enough, Poopies was one of the 8 humans that were living in my house. And I kicked everyone out, told them to beat it, except for my good friends. And you know, Poopies kept just coming around after that and was just a real nice and a real chill and down dude. I felt bad because his name was Poopies, so I was like, ‘yo man, you are a really cool guy, I will just call you Sean’ (his real name) and it just didn’t work, he’s just not a Sean, he’s Poopies.